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At the quiet end of the Gough Street spectrum is this modest Japanese diner, a tiny joint that seats less than 20 at any given time, serving a Hokkaido speciality: soup curry. Wildly aromatic and blended with a broth base as well as a tomato-, coconut- or shrimp-based soup, the end result is complex and deeply flavoursome. There are three key spice levels – baby bear, adult bear, and crazy bear – though within each you can adjust even further according to your taste. We opt for the classic “marathon chicken” (with tender chicken legs) and the keema natto curry, served with fluffy and sticky Japanese shortgrain rice. The former includes a healthy serving of mixed vegetables, from chunks of carrot and potato to thick discs of lotus root, and the latter is fantastically textured thanks to the slippery fermented soybeans and chopped okra; we would have liked them to include some whole natto beans for extra texture. The tomato soup base lends a satisfying sweetness to the curry. On the drinks side, this is one of the few places in Hong Kong where you can find Hitachino Nest ale on tap.