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This two-floor Jason Atherton-Yenn Wong restaurant is probably the most upscale of their dining concepts in Hong Kong – but it wears its fine dining badge lightly, with a convivial ambience and lived-in décor. An open kitchen is the focal point upstairs, whilst downstairs has a more casual vibe thanks to its bar section, plus there’s also a breezy outdoor patio ideal for lingering drinks and weekend brunches. Warm wood floors, dark leather chairs, copper accents and vintage-style knick-knacks combine to make this an inviting space, whilst the mellow disco soundtrack makes us feel right at home without becoming obtrusive.
The menu has evolved a lot since its opening in 2014, but the restaurant’s general philosophy remains the same – elegant, refined, contemporary British cuisine with just enough twists to keep things interesting. Our tiger prawn cocktail starter is a case in point, and is so good you wonder why the dish ever went out of fashion in the first place; the addition of lobster jelly to this classic delivers a delicious umami hit that sets the pace for an exciting meal. We are similarly delighted with another of the small plate appetisers, 63° Cotswold egg with mashed potato, truffle and mushroom crumb. Essentially comfort food with some fine dining magic sprinkled over it (we love the earthy, salty mushroom crumb), it might look a bit of a mess once mixed together but that does not stop us scraping the bowl clean.
Mains continue to keep us guessing, in a good way. Our roasted lamb loin is cooked to a perfect tender pink and lifted by an inspired choice of accompaniments – including golden crunchy hash browns, deep smoky aubergine purée and a rich haggis sauce. Ensure you leave room for the truffle mac, a beautifully creamy and gloriously decadent side dish that we are still wistfully dreaming about days later.
A near faultless meal finishes in style with dessert. Chocoholics will adore the chocolate and peanut bar with caramelised bananas, cookie crumble and banana ice cream; the classic combination of flavours and textures works in perfect harmony, although its heavy richness makes this a dish best shared. Meanwhile, the blackcurrant meringue is a deft, modern take on Eton Mess – break open the delicate meringue shell to reveal a gorgeously tart sorbet and creamy light mascarpone, all invigorated by a final hint of miso.
An extensive wine list includes a variety of both new and old world wines over a spread of price points, with plenty available by glass too. The cocktail menu is also particularly enticing, with creative concoctions like How D’Ya Like Them Apples (featuring apple gin, apple liqueur, chartreuse and white wine) and A Rabbit Walks Into A Bar (scotch, carrot juice, Sichuan pepper liqueur, ginger apple syrup and egg white) catching the eye.
Service is swift and attentive, with our glasses never left empty. Staff are warm and friendly too, although dish explanations have to be requested rather than given as standard.
A three-course meal for two with wine does not come cheap at around HK$1600, but given the interesting menu and impeccable quality of the food, is definitely worth it. That being said, the option of a set dinner or tasting menu would be a nice addition.