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Occupying half the circular space at the top of Lee Gardens Two, An Nam is a calming vision of pale turquoise and dark wood, an elegant and relaxing setting for meals. Tables are nicely spaced, with screens and doorways splitting up various sections of the restaurant. Request seats next to the open atrium for light and air; while the deep-set booths may seem intimate, every guest arriving at the restaurant will breeze by your table, heels clacking on the tiled floor.
Hong Kong is not short of cheap and casual Vietnamese eateries, so An Nam’s elevated menu featuring the country’s royal cuisine alongside the usual crowd pleasers is a satisfying one. Each dish is crafted thoughtfully, so that even a simple bowl of chicken pho delights, with its copious fresh herbs, lime and chilli. We recommend starting with one of the vibrant salads, such as the lotus root with banana flower, shrimp, pork belly and basil with a piquant lime dressing and just enough heat to get the palate started. A nice segue is the An Nam pearl snapper soup, which is large enough for 2-3 to share. The whole fish is poached in a tomato and sour soup until it is tender and flaky, and we enjoy the lemongrass notes imbued in its snowy white flesh. Vermicelli is offered for you to dip into the spicy, tart broth that is kept hot in a clay pot over a flame. Seafood is certainly a highlight, as in the signature wok-fried king prawns with annatto seed, young coconut juice and fish sauce—the gravy is full of umami flavour and the crustacean is bouncy and sweet—but the sautéed beef cubes of Angus tenderloin is equally satisfying, each piece releasing flavoursome juices. For dessert, there is a selection of homemade ice cream (coconut, yam, passionfruit) as well as French-inflected options such as banh flan and mango crêpe.
The concise wine collection offers a few reliable labels available by the glass, crisscrossing Europe with offerings across the board. A selection of grower champagnes is also available. Signature cocktails include coconut martinis and pineapple mojitos in the usual east-meets-west fashion.
Service generally is polite and efficient, and staff were helpful in assisting us with serving the more fussy dishes such as the fish in soup. Dishes were changed when needed.
A meal for two with wine and service will come to around HK$1,400, though some of the portions are quite healthy and you may not need too many courses between a smaller group.