Mon to Sun, 12:00 noon - 3:00 pm
Mon to Sat, 6:00 pm - 11:00 pm; Sun, 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm
3 rooms for 4-24 persons
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Fried beef cubes with wasabi and soy sauce
Crispy salted chicken
Fried fresh lobster, scallion and shallots
British design maven Ilse Crawford created a sumptuous modern space channeling 50s Hong Kong with elegant woods and light marble. Contemporary Chinese brush and ink paintings hang on muted green walls, and the minimalist main dining room is accented with yellow banquettes at the back, exuding an artsy grandeur. There’s no view in there either, apart from people watching, which should still pose as a fascinating diversion as the city’s glitterati continue to flock here for dinner, drinks and dim sum. The tableware is appreciably exquisite.
Chef Siu Hin Chi, formerly of T’ang Court, serves an extensive modern Cantonese menu with rather punchy and emphatic flavours. The classic Cantonese starter of crispy suckling pig is presented as sophisticated bite-sized morsels: bronzed wafer-thin crackling on petite slices of fluffy steamed Chinese bun, a promising start to a meal and an absolute joy to consume. Fried beef cubes with wasabi soy sauce came as a mound of unctuous, buttery cubes of beef, the wasabi providing more of an alluringly aromatic endnote rather than a pungent horseradish-like attack to the nose. The baked oyster with port wine was another highlight. Served individually, it’s a giant spectacle of a shellfish, with a sweet and tangy caramelised bite on the outside; muscular, meaty and succulent within. Fried fresh lobster, scallion and shallots delighted us as well, with bouncy flesh and bits of shell deep-fried to an edible bisque-flavoured crunch. The dessert menu was rather ambitiously eclectic. The more traditional Chinese varieties, such as the caramel baked sago pudding with lotus seed paste and the baked kumquat puff, were delicious and worked better than say, the chocolate and avocado sago cream, which tasted neither of chocolate nor avocado.
The list is selected by Duddell’s co-founder Paulo Pong, focusing on classic old world wines with mature and premium vintages. Oenophiles will relish at the selection of Bordeaux first growths. There are also creative Chinese-inspired cocktails from the bar above, and a whole range of exquisite and expensive teas on offer.
There were complaints about service when Duddell’s first opened, but we are pleased to note that it has now improved to at least beige but informed and efficient. Staff stand in attendance around a central and stylish service station, with your tea and wine at hand. Whoever thought of that deserves a round of applause.
A meal for two with a glass of wine each can range between HK$1,500 to HK$2,000, depending on what you order. A more affordable dim sum lunch can be had upstairs in the salon. There’s also an unlimited dim sum brunch with free-flow Perrier Jouet on Saturdays for HK$580.