Fook Lam Moon has the reputation of being one of the only restaurants in Hong Kong where luxury car-spotting is almost a pastime. From the army of valet and chauffeur drivers that greet you outside the restaurant’s Johnston Road entrance to the constant queue of luxury sports cars, one finds it quite hard not to have their expectations lifted before even stepping into the foyer. Fook Lam Moon has been a dining institution for the rich and affluent of Hong Kong for more than fifty years, and while the interior has had minor renovations, the same low ceilings and bright lighting mean is has the feel of being only marginally more luxurious than most Cantonese banquet restaurants. In addition, the wooden floors make for a boisterous atmosphere when the restaurant gets busy, which is quite often due to its respected status. 

The menu at Fook Lam Moon is extensive, with a wide range of delicacies such Japanese abalone ranging from HK$4,000 to HK$20,000. We begin our meal with the day’s long-boiled soup, a delicious if slightly pricey bowl consisting of a humble mixture of sweet corn, carrots and pork. Our next dish of eel with honey is quite sweet and meaty, with a delicate texture denoting its freshness - but overall we found it lacking in acidity that would have lifted the dish. Fook Lam Moon’s signature crispy chicken comes with a fresh lemon juice dip which is refreshing and does a lot to offset the slightly over-seasoned meat, though the skin itself is fine. You cannot go wrong with the spicy eggplant casserole with minced pork; a delightfully spicy, hearty dish with a strong flavour of dried fish and impressively little oil, perfect for a cold winter’s night. The lotus-wrapped fried rice is deservedly a signature here as well, moist and chock-full of meat, conpoy and mushrooms – utterly delicious. Seasoning at Fook Lam Moon seemed to be slightly erratic on the night we visited, as our seasonal vegetables in the restaurant’s signature broth which we found utterly bland. Our platter of roasted pork and barbecued pork belly is also a letdown; the roasted pork belly appeared an unnatural pink colour, and while the roasted pork itself is very tender with a nice blend of fat and meat, it is a little light on flavor. Things perk up with dessert, however; our bird’s nest with coconut milk is one of Fook Lam Moon’s most famous dishes and deservedly so. The bird's nest is dense and sweet, even without the addition of the coconut milk, which can be served on the side.

The wine list only contains wines by the bottle, of which only four are half bottles (two each of red and white). The list also includes some truly impressive and very expensive bottles. However, customers should have some idea of what they are after, as the restaurant lacks the skills of a qualified sommelier to help you navigate and choose from the wine list. The 2006 Meursault is a good match for most of the lighter dishes such as chicken and steamed fish.

The staff are mostly knowledgeable and friendly; make sure to ask for dish recommendations as most of these waiters are old-timers and know the menu backwards and forwards. Dishes arrive very quickly, apart from dessert when there is a noticeable lull.

A meal for two including wine can start at around HK$1,500 but prices go rapidly upwards if you order any sort of seafood, particularly abalone.