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Warmly-lit and opulently decorated with an ornate circular bar, Gold has more than a hint of disco about it. There is a nod to the traditional steak house style of seating, but also a wink at 1970s glamour. This place is a fusion of Italian and American, but also of eras. Set high above the seediness, but still close to the heart of the action, Lan Kwai Fong is the right place for its seductive vibe.
Gold delivers a creative twist on Italian-American fusion cuisine. The crispy fried oysters are a delicious choice to begin. The oyster meat inside is still juicy and the burst of accompanying chorizo and pequillo pepper salsa makes the dish infinitely more interesting. The truffle pappardelle is easily one of the best pasta plates in Hong Kong. The rich, earthy flavour of the mushrooms and the truffles, served with a smoked egg oozing over thick ribbons of pasta make a sensuous combination. It works as both a starter and a main and can be ordered in both sizes. Given the high quality of the ingredients, Gold is a superb place to sample high-quality meat and fish. The menu promises the 8oz fillet of beef will melt in your mouth and so it does. The slow-cooked Colorado lamb rib is a luscious piece of meat but cooked inconsistently – one piece served bloody, the other medium rare. Both plates were enhanced by some beautifully roasted garlic. The heavy and overly-seasoned truffle mashis a side dish to skip, and save room for desserts instead. We opted for the grandly titled “best warm white chocolate cake you have ever tasted”, which came with a home-made milk gelato and raspberry sauce. We were not disappointed.
An extensive and excellent wine list with an assortment of premium options by the glass – both the Gran Malbec and Shiraz are recommended. By the bottle the range is extraordinary, starting from around HK$450 all the way to HK$75,000 if you opt for a 1982 Petrus from the Private Cellar collection.
The American approach of reeling off a long list of the daily specials soon after being seated is something of a mood killer. The junior staff are attentive, thoughtful and friendly, but some more senior members less helpful. Expect a rush to clear your plates and a reluctance to leave you perusing the menu for too long.
At more than HK $2,000 this is an indulgent dinner for two but the price tag is in keeping with other venues of this ilk. It’s a good choice to impress or to celebrate.