Masculine and old-fashioned without being kitschy, the steakhouse at the Grand Hyatt is comfortable and classic. Sink into one of the heavy leather seats, let your eyes be amused by the Roman sculptures and oil paintings, while the heavy drapery and catchy soundtrack gently lull you into a slower and relaxed state. 

The menu at Grand Hyatt Steakhouse is as unabashedly retro as the décor, with 70s and 80s classics such as shrimp cocktail and rum baba all making an appearance. Although we are usually enticed by the salad bar, which serves pata negra ham, Caesar salad and house-smoked salmon, this time we opted for the signature Maryland crab cakes and half a dozen oysters. The crab cakes were a little too browned for our liking, although you can still taste the freshness of the crustacean. The oysters, on the other hand, are delightful. Expertly shucked so that the meat comes off with the lightest of scoops, there is also a good variety with briny Tasmanians and some creamy yet crisp specimens from New Zealand. Another seafood dish we really enjoyed was the grilled Mediterranean red prawns. Although they come with lemon aioli, it’s really not necessary as the perfectly-cooked prawns have plenty of flavour, and the gooey prawn brains are packed with umami. Most people will opt for a steak for the main: and although Grand Hyatt Steakhouse offers USDA prime Nebraskan beef, Black Angus and Canadian dry-aged prime, we feel that the Japanese A5 wagyu from Kumamoto is far and away the best choice. Yes, it is expensive but the difference in quality is crystal clear. Our Japanese strip loin was wonderfully marbled and so flavourful that it barely needed any of the well-executed béarnaise sauce. For dessert, don’t leave without trying one of the signature sundaes. We loved the black forest variety, comprising soft serve vanilla and chocolate ice cream, punctuated with generous helpings of kirsch brandy.

There are two wine lists here: the Grand Hyatt Steakhouse wine list, as well as the Sommelier’s Cellar Selection. The main wine list is sorted by grapes and varietals, while the Sommelier’s Cellar is a round-up of the most “iconic” and very expensive wines from around the world. There are four whites by the glass and half a dozen reds, including a tasty 2007 Hartford Court Land’s Edge pinot noir, which is a good, if light, accompaniment to the steak. Wines by the glass are relatively affordable, ranging from HK$105 to HK$390.

The service is impressively attentive. When an extra juicy prawn squirted some of its juices onto a white shirt, we discreetly tried to blot it. Before we knew it, a waiter had materialised with a glass of soda water to assist. The style of service is American, with gregarious and informative waiters, which is appropriate in this particular setting. Our waiter, however, did seem a little nervous and jumpy. 

The price of a meal here is quite dependant on what sort of steak you order, as they can vary from HK$320 for a Canadian short rib to HK$1,380 for the Japanese strip loin. Our meal (which included said strip loin shared between two) came to HK$3,800 with one glass of wine each. While this is definitely pricey, it is a worthwhile reminder that the best things in life do not come cheap.