The Grand Hyatt’s Italian fine dining restaurant Grissini exudes a dark decadence, perfect for a romantic night out. The space itself is a bit odd: narrow and quite small. The dining area is split between two levels, both overlooking the harbour below. Diners may want to check ahead, as the wrong table can find you behind one of the massive black marble pillars, which will entirely obstruct the world-class view.

Grissini’s cuisine is classic Italian and unabashedly high end. Food is made simply but with great care and with only the finest ingredients. Despite its faithfulness to tradition, Grissini does not shy from innovation. The vitello tonnato, slow cooked pink veal slices in a tuna caper sauce, is a case in point. The ingredients are pristine and the flavours are fresh, out-front and unadorned. Although some may find it reminiscent of roast beef, it makes for a simple and satisfying starter. The zucchini flowers stuffed with vegetable caponata and buffalo mozzarella cream, is less effective. The flavours are there; the mozzarella cream is especially nice, but the dish is mushy and a bit muddled. The homemade ravioli stuffed with Caprino goat cheese, pears and walnut pesto, on the other hand, are exceptional. A great summer dish, the combination of the earthy goat cheese, walnuts and crunchy pears is fresh and earthy. Grissini’s signature dish of deep water sea bass served with fresh tomatoes, taggiasca olives, capers and red onions is a similar, if slightly less sensational, success.

The wine list at Grissini is impressive in its breadth of Italian wines; there are bottles and glasses available in a suitable range of prices with both rare finds and prestigious names well represented. There is also a good selection of grappa and other aperitifs.

The service at Grissini is beyond reproach. Waiters are courteous, knowledgeable and attentive. Every detail of the service seems polished and well orchestrated without being stuffy or overbearing. 

Grissini’s prices mean it is very much a special occasion restaurant, although the impeccable service and top-shelf ingredients go a long way towards justifying the hefty price tag. A three-course meal for two with wine should be just a little over HK$2,000.