Few realise that the glitzy Harvey Nichols department store, ensconced within the Landmark, has its own eponymous restaurant on the titular fourth floor. Décor is decidedly contemporary with a slight modern art finish, as the angular shapes in shades of red, blue and yellow across the ceiling suggest. The room is lengthy, with tables down either side, but while there are windows along the right the effect is less airy than expected, especially when the blinds are drawn to keep out direct sunlight. Without much soft furnishings, the restaurant tends to get quite noisy, particularly during the lunch hour rush when office workers fill the seats to talk both shop and business.
A contemporary menu with strong European influences gives this restaurant a stylish edge, and the more health conscious diner will find delight in dishes that have a lighter approach. The beef consommé, for example, with its petite diced vegetables and cubes of tender meat, is comforting enough for cooler days, and refreshing enough for warmer weather. A touch more seasoning would make this a standout dish. As for the rest of the menu, there is an equal split between seafood dishes and meat dishes, and we certainly felt that the former offers a more consistent dining experience. The signature butter-poached lobster and steamed sea bass is served with bright pops of colour from salmon roe and delicate microherbs, and we enjoy the al dente texture of the slippery orzo pasta upon which the seafood rested. However, roasted Australian lamb rack with potato gratin and aubergine roll with garlic confit and cherry tomatoes was not exactly successful, with the lamb on the drier side, and the vegetables tasting rather bland. Desserts are definitely on the pretty side, and the combinations are certainly tempting: nougat with the unusual addition of mandarin, for example, or almond chiboust with peach almond sauce and cherry confit. Our strawberry mousse cake with coconut marshmallow brings together the English countryside and the tropics in a border-crossing dessert.
You can order Harvey Nichols’ own branded champagne and wines, though the rest of the list is pretty impressive in its breadth and variety, with plenty of choice within all the major wine regions. Pricing is kind, too, with bottles from the HK$300 to just under HK$10,000 and many averaging HK$400-500. We enjoyed the by-the-glass wine pairings we were offered, and staff are happy to allow you to taste the wine before ordering. If teetotal, ask the waiters for the selection of daily fresh-pressed juices, which may include the likes of mellow guava.
During a busy lunch service, staff were nevertheless on the ball and generally performed well under pressure, with just a few niggles (water glasses were infrequently topped up, and there were several long waits between courses).
The restaurant offers a three-course lunch set priced just under HK$400. For dinner, a three-course meal for two with wine and service would cost around HK$2,000. For the moment, we feel this is a little pricy given the inconsistency of the mains.