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Situated in the basement level of the InterContinental Grand Stanford of East Tsim Sha Tsui, Hoi King Heen makes their numerous awards and accolades known as soon as you enter the restaurant. The interior is dark and ceiling low, but the buzzing atmosphere brightens up the room. Set up like a traditional banquet hall, part of the restaurant sits on a stage-like platform enclosed with low dividers. The restaurant is all about show, with an open kitchen and various diners watching tableside Peking duck carving.
The menu at Hoi King Heen is traditional Cantonese, with numerous other inventive dishes invented by the restaurant, many of which have won awards at various culinary competitions. The pumpkin seafood soup is smooth and creamy, though it lacks the sweetness and aroma of the gourd. Assorted seafood is finely diced, which unfortunately makes them undistinguishable, but at least it adds an interesting texture to the soup. Braised beef brisket stuffed in pear is another award-winning dish. Presented as three whole pears covered in a glistening thick beef jus, the most impressive aspect of the dish is that every component is well cooked. The pear is sweet and offers a bite, without being mushy. The beef brisket is tender and flavourful with a hint of five-spice. However, the contrast in texture and flavour is too disparate to make it a cohesive dish. Pan-fried prawns with spring onions in soy sauce, served per piece, is a crispy-shelled prawn with juicy meat, heightened by a ginger and scallion soy reduction. Another successful dish is three-tastes tofu and fortune bag, showcasing the tofu prepared in a variety of methods; it’s a colourful and layered masterpiece.
It’s not easy to pair wine with Chinese cuisine, but there is a variety of wine from new world regions that complements well with the food at Hoi King Heen. While servers are not very knowledgeable about the wine, they’re happy to let you taste before deciding.
Service is friendly and brisk, however it would be difficult to get anybody’s attention if you are seated in a separate room from the main dining area.
Dinner for two with wine is about HK$1,600. The price is reasonable considering it is going towards a taste of award-winning Cantonese cuisine, but also to the classic dishes that are properly prepared with quality ingredients.