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Jade Dragon will always impress with its solid combination of opulence and comfort—from the comfortable spacing between tables to the drama of the chandeliers. Staff pad noiselessly around the room, dutifully refilling tea cups and removing empty plates, and the clientele too tend to speak at a lower volume in respect of the atmosphere. Even at busy times, the space never feels too noisy nor too crowded.
Jade Dragon never rests on its laurels. Here, dishes will always find a way to turn your expectations on their head; flavour combinations you rarely imagined will come to life, a humble root vegetable will be the best possible version it can be, challenging and exciting the tastebuds. You can see and feel the skill that has been put into taming the elements, the conscientious control of wood and flame that is the secret behind the lilting sweet smoky flavours of a tender roast goose.
Unafraid to bring in ingredients not commonly associated with the Chinese kitchen, chef Tam has continued to redefine what it means to be cooking on the boundaries of tradition and innovation, east and west. His love for produce and labour-intensive cooking techniques has contributed superlative dishes this year such as rich chicken broth with black garlic and wild mushrooms—the soup is thickened from hours of cooking, the umami note of quality bird distilled into a velvety cascade of flavours. Crunchy quinoa plus meaty morels and chanterelles add effective texture points while imbuing the broth with a wild earthiness.
Elsewhere, plump Fine de Claire oysters are settled into bowls of soothing soup with grains of rice, which have soaked up the flavours of the bivalve; crispy rice grains to be sprinkled over the top add the essential textural contrast, in a stunning take on a traditional Shanghainese dish.
On the dim sum menu, French carrots and Yunnan ham are married in a tender union bound by sweet strands of radish that melt on the tongue, the exterior golden-brown, crisp and greaseless despite its turn in the deep-fryer. We can’t fault the procession of dishes that arrive at our table, nor the warm and welcoming service.
Diners will be able to make their selections from City of Dreams’ excellent wine menu, and the white wines by the glass offer a number of food-friendly Grüner Velitners and Gerwurztraminers from Austria and Alsace, but we always recommend at least enjoying a brew from the line-up of premium teas.
Service is always impeccable at Jade Dragon, with smiling staff that move with elegance and purpose. Their warm welcomes and accommodating character means every guest feels like a regular when they dine here.
A meal for two with wine and service comes to around MOP1,000 which is extremely good value for the level of quality to be found here.