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Lu Feng reminds us of a retro Hong Kong, with its vintage tile flooring and installations of old metal shutter gates, fluorescent light signs and wooden ceilings and staircases, restoring the former glory of Hong Kong’s classic tea house décor.
Tables are well spaced apart throughout the different dining areas, although the ones on the top floor with a harbour view are the most sought after. The banquettes set along the upper floor may not have access to a view, but they are more spacious and offer more privacy for smaller parties.
The great thing about Lu Feng’s menu is that the restaurant serves an abundance of Cantonese classics, but its sheer breadth can also be its downfall. Some dim sum varieties are available all day, and the steamed shrimp dumplings are petite and surprisingly good. The translucent wrapper was slightly chewy and the shrimp filling fresh with crunchy flakes of chopped bamboo shoots.
A selection of old Hong Kong dishes was tucked away on the last page of the menu, offering some dishes that are rarely executed properly, such as deep fried crispy chicken and braised pomelo peel with shrimp roe. The crispy chicken was on point, with thin, crispy thin and tender meat, though over-seasoned. Braised pomelo peel was on the soft but disappointingly mushy with the same seasoning issue.
Stir-fried milk and egg white with Chinese olive was tough to pull off, and Lu Feng made an effort to create a fluffy scramble, which was creamy and great with steamed rice. The classic sweet and sour pork was lukewarm when it was delivered at the table, and the battered pork was golden but turned soggy, although the sauce had the right sweet and tart balance.
The restaurant recommends braised assorted mushrooms and vegetables but we opted for simpler stir-fried Chinese kale in ginger juice for good measure. The tender stalks were crunchy and sweet with just the right touch of zingy ginger. We also enjoyed the fried crispy noodle with shredded pork, with just the right amount of sauce to moisten the crunchy egg noodles without turning it too soft.
Beverage selections at Lu Feng are included in the main menu, with a small selection of beers, classic cocktails and Chinese wines and spirits. It is crucial to note that all of the restaurant’s wines are available by the glass, and affordably so, although the varieties tend to be rather generic.
Service can be tricky at Lu Feng. Guests making a special trip to visit may find it frustrating that reservations were never confirmed ahead, and at times, never placed at all. Once seated the service is quick and structured, often feel rehearsed but also slightly rushed from taking orders to delivering food.
It is, however in areas such as introducing menu offerings, that the service team is particularly weak on. Delivery of menu orders varies by the time of our visit, some dishes took minutes but some required a few reminders to chase.
A dinner for two with tea amounts to HK$1,000. Lu Feng offers a nostalgic glimpse into old Hong Kong style tea houses with rich memorabilia in its setting, if only the food and drink offerings were at the same high calibre it aims to reach to impress guests local and from abroad.