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The restaurant is actually divided into two distinct dining areas – Ming Sun and Ming Moon, with the former a smaller and more intimate space. We would recommend Sun for a more enjoyable fine dining experience, as the larger room is rather loud and feels more like a raucous dim sum parlour during busy services. Ming vases hint at the name of the restaurant, and flashes of gold on the ceiling add an extra touch of lux. The private dining rooms are worth booking; the light cream and taupe shades are incredibly elegant, and certainly a space to impress guests.
Elevated Cantonese dishes is the specialty here, and there are plenty of dishes that excel in flavour and presentation. The signature tea pot chicken consommé with matsutake mushroom and bamboo pith is intensely flavoured and crystal-clear – a paragon of Chinese soups. The Dragon Quartet features a number of intriguing small bites, such as osmanthus-scented foie gras served on a sweet lotus root. Not every bite is a success – the pu-er smoked fish fillet is on the dry side, and we’re not sure peanut butter worked that well in a beancurd sheet roll. Silky tofu with Italian black truffle is anointed with gold leaf, which is slightly superfluous given that the dish is so enjoyable on its own. For dessert, the addition of crunchy-textured Japanese sago to a dessert of mango, pomelo and coconut cream is a subtle update on a classic.
We’re not so impressed with the wine service – when asking what would go well with our tasting menu, we were only offered the house red, a burgundy. While fine, we expected more finesse – particularly as the wine cellar is actually quite good, with breadth and variety.
Generally we felt that service dipped slightly compared to our previous visits, with patchy knowledge of the menu and a slightly disinterested air. However, when we spotted some feathers in our bird’s nest soup staff were quick to replace it and offer apologies.
A meal for two with wine and service will come to around HK$1,300. It’s not the most expensive Chinese meal in town, but there are some niggles to be worked out in terms of cooking and service.