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Dark woods, dark leather booths, plus a bar serving up martinis: Morton’s interior is typical of a classic American steakhouse. The minute you step foot in the Tsim Sha Tsui establishment, it’s impossible to imagine eating anything but a hunk of beef after a dirty martini. The clientele is mostly steak-loving Americans, as well as large groups of tourists and businessmen.
Food at Morton’s can be hit-and-miss. To start, try the lobster bisque, an extremely creamy soup with a healthy dash of alcohol. Keep in mind that the portions here are so large that even a shared soup split between two is hard to finish. Chopped salad is equally massive, centred around well-seasoned iceberg and romaine with just the right amounts of bacon, blue cheese and chopped egg; a relatively light and delicious appetiser. Steaks are the main attraction at Morton’s and the aged prime rib-eye steak won’t disappoint, a perfectly cooked cut that makes any mustard or sauce unnecessary. The signature New York strip, on the other hand, is a bit chewy and requires the pepper and cognac cream sauce to give it a lift. Enjoyable sides include steamed asparagus with a light hollandaise and delectably greasy hash browns that remains moist and springy in the middle. Less successful are the undercooked Idaho baked potatoes. End your meal with Morton’s legendary cocoa-based desserts, including the chocolate mousse, a sweet treat with lovely texture.
Morton’s presents a comprehensive wine lists sorted by grape varietals and countries. Even the half-bottles list is impressive with over a dozen red wines.
From the chorus-line of greetings, the long recital of the menu, to the presentation of the raw steaks, the service may be a theatrical but at least it is efficient and well-rehearsed.
Dinner for two should cost around HK$2,000.