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Located on the fourth floor of the Sheraton Hotel, Morton’s Of Chicago is one of Hong Kong’s longest-surviving high-end steakhouses; a relative stalwart in the scene, the restaurant has been serving prime American steaks for more than a decade in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui’s waterfront. Dark wood panelling and leather booths evoke the best of old-fashioned Americana. It’s not just the menu that stands out here – the view of Hong Kong harbour from some of the tables is simply exquisite, and any restaurant playing Sam Cook gently in the background is worth a visit in our books.
Upon being seated, every diner is served a football-sized baked bread pie topped with sesame seeds and shallots – it’s a telling precursor for the rest of the meal, so watch how much you nibble on. The Morton’s prime ocean platter comes highly recommended, and the oysters we try are from the south of Australia and are very fresh and briny, arriving at just the right temperature. The same are prepared as oysters Rockefeller, where the creamed spinach and hollandaise oyster mixture is salty, buttery and creamy – an excellent rendition of an American steakhouse classic. Crunchy lobster bites and Alaskan king crab legs go perfectly well with a squeeze of lemon, though the provided mayonnaise is superfluous. Initially, our signature USDA prime cajun rib-eye arrives overdone but the staff were more than willing to replace it; however, while it’s a juicy piece of steak, there is a distinct lack of marbling and any beef taste is overwhelmed by the cajun seasoning. Things perk up with the US double rib lamb chops though. Enormous, Flintstones-sized chops arrive heavily charred and crunchy on the outside but still juicy and evenly pink in the middle. The side dishes at Morton’s are well-executed and worth ordering. In particular, we loved the steamed fresh jumbo asparagus in hollandaise, the asparagus being perfectly cooked and crunchy with a buttery but quite mild hollandaise. We weren’t impressed at all with Morton’s “legendary hot chocolate cake” though, it was overly sweet and didn’t have a rich chocolatey taste at all. Pleasant, but hardly worthy of its legendary status - there are far superior examples across Hong Kong.
The wine list at Morton’s is predominantly red, with most wines hailing from the US. Bottles begin at around HK$500, with Australian wines being the cheapest, and go up to HK$12,000.
Service at Morton’s is typically American and friendly, with an Asian tendency to attentiveness and discipline. Servers are unobtrusive though, but at times the menu recitations can seem a little forced. The staff here are very open to specific requests and this must be applauded.
Morton’s isn’t cheap, but then the restaurant strictly uses the top two per cent of all USDA beef certified in the USA, otherwise known as USDA Prime. A heavy meal for two with wine, two starters and mains with a shared dessert starts at around HK$2,800.