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Entering Morton’s after passing through the Sheraton’s lobby is like walking into a Mad Men episode: a dimly lit interior full of dark wood and white table clothes, with framed photos of celebrities enjoying their steaks on the walls.. Waiters, in formal whites, bustle silently over the thick carpet pushing carts laden with raw cuts of beef and a large live lobster. Diners could think they were in midtown Manhattan, if it weren’t for the expansive views over Victoria harbour.
The food on the evening we dined was excellent: perfectly cooked using fresh premium ingredients and straightforward without fuss or pretension. We started with a chilled Morton’s prime ocean platter for two and recommend you do the same. The tower came with Maine lobster, jumbo shrimp cocktail, jumbo lump crabmeat, oysters on the half-shell, and Alaskan King crab legs. Everything was excellent but the dense and flavourful crab legs were the undisputed highlight. Then it was time for steak. We sprung for the Cajun rib-eye steak and a 6-ounce centre-cut filet mignon. We might normally have skipped the Cajun ribeye but our waiter recommended it and we were glad we listened. The large steak was marinated overnight in a fairly mellow mix of Cajun spices and the result was a steak—cooked to a flawless medium rare—with a deep savoury zing. The filet looked a bit lonely, served alone on a large white plate, but was rich and butter-tender. Although we were getting full we could not resist Morton's “Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake”. Although now ubiquitous, we had to admit that this particular molten chocolate cake was delicious, its hot liquid centre mixing nicely with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Still, it was very rich and went half unfinished.
Morton’s wine list is extensive and our waiter was extremely knowledgeable about wine and forthcoming with recommendations. Of special interest was the selection of full-bodied American reds, thought the selection of wines by the bottle will be off-limits to anyone without deep pockets.
The service at Morton’s was some of the best we’d ever experienced in Hong Kong. The staff were professional to a fault but exemplified the best in American-style service, friendly, warm and without fuss. Our only quibble is: if you were in a rush, this is not the place to be as the introductions to the meat cart alone can take a while.
Even with the lovely views, great food, and excellent service, we still consider Morton’s as expensive. A special-occasion restaurant to be sure.