The multi-level atrium that houses One Harbour Road possesses sweeping views of Hong Kong’s glittering waterfront from a number of different viewpoints. The restaurant’s environment is at once elegant and welcoming, with understated luxury playing a predominant theme in the décor, modelled after a 1930s Chinese mansion. Seats are spaced evenly and make the most of the view, and the sound quality is maintained despite the relatively full house when we visited. Soft lighting casts a somewhat dreamy glow on the diners, striking a nice balance for an ambience that is both romantic and lively.
One Harbour Road continues to be one of the city’s top destinations for traditional Cantonese fare. The menu, curated by talented chef Li Shu Tim, ranges from refined set menus making the most of seasonal gourmet ingredients to rustic home-style favourites. We’ve been fans of their roasted meat selection for years, so it’s slightly disappointing to return to find that though their char siu remains enjoyably fatty, the meat itself is a tad dry and lacks sweetness. The prawns, on the other hand, are a revelation. Large and fragrant, their freshness is emphasised with a coating of spicy crab roe sauce, complete with small, sweet morsels of crab. Bits of garlic lend a welcome pungency, while the spice is most definitely manageable, featuring more as an accessory flavour rather than a top note. We did wish for a slightly more delicate texture for the prawns, but they are nonetheless a standout. Our vegetarian lettuce cups showcase the kitchen’s dedication and patience with tiny pieces of mushrooms and other minced vegetables, and the pine nuts and the lettuce enhance the crispiness of the dish. The slow-cooked chicken in aged hua diao wine is aromatic, with the strong scent of the Chinese wine permeating the meat with its headiness. Unfortunately, the texture is slightly off and the meat on the tough side. The meal ends on a high note with an umami abalone fried rice dish that arrives in a sizzling stone pot, balanced later on with a refreshing pomelo sago cream for dessert.
One Harbour Road’s wine list is home to an extensive selection of vintages from around the world. A sommelier is available to help navigate your selection. Our 2011 Chablis chardonnay was dry and crisp, matching wonderfully with the Cantonese fare.
Attentive without being obtrusive, service at One Harbour Road is excellent, and the more senior staff are able to provide both food and wine recommendations with ease.
A sumptuous meal for two with two excellent glasses of wine comes to less than HK$2,000, which we consider as good value for money given the view and dining experience.