Mon to Sat, 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm; Sun, 11:30 am - 2:30 pm
Mon to Sun, 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm
2 rooms for 12-24 persons
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Seafood consommé, bamboo piths
Wok-fried prawns, spicy crab roe sauce
Pork dumplings, dried halibut
Although the construction of the new bypass from Central to the Island Eastern Corridor may somewhat mar the view visible outside the floor to ceiling glass panels of One Harbour Road, there is no denying that the vista is still impressive to make sure most customers book a seat by the window. Split over two levels, we prefer the window seats on the lower level for maximum enjoyment.
A good way to gauge any Cantonese restaurant is to start by ordering their roast meat, and we test One Harbour Road’s mettle by trying their roast pork char siu and roast goose platter. Although we had a requested a fattier cut of pork, the char siu that came was still very lean and a bit tough, and we thought that the glazing could have been sweeter. The roast goose is more successful, with a crispy skin and juicy, tender meat. Staying with the meat, we also ordered a steamed chicken with Yunnan ham. Served boneless with a delicious and thick broth, we enjoyed this poultry dish very much, although it was important to have a bite of the pork alongside the chicken, as it was the ham that provided most of the seasoning. Moving onto seafood, we tried the signature garoupa fillet simmered in hot chilli oil. This was much milder and less spicy than we had feared, and although the fish is tender and well-cooked, we did find the taste of it muted by the sauce. Another seafood dish we enjoyed was the minced crab meat soup with wintermelon, which was thick, flavourful and comforting. For dessert, the sago cream with pomelo and mango is refreshing, without being too heavy. Both that and the homemade coconut ice cream are a great way to end the meal.
While many more high-end Chinese restaurants are gradually sprucing up their cellars, it is still not common to find one that as well-stocked as the one at One Harbour Road. Combined with the thoughtful and warm recommendations of sommelier Nicolas Deneux, this restaurant elevates the experience of drinking wine with Chinese cuisine.
The wait staff at One Harbour Road is professional, experienced and efficient without being intrusive. Tea cups are whisked away before you have even noticed that your tea might have cooled or become too strong, replaced with a piping hot brew on a regular basis. Plates are also taken away before you’ve noticed they might have become too dirty, and when ordering many dishes on a small table (as we did), the staff do their utmost to fit the dishes in an intricate, elegant origami fashion.
A meal for two with wine (but without live seafood or delicacies such as bird’s nest) comes to about HK$2,000. While this is not inexpensive, it is also not too much to pay for an elegant and always satisfying experience.