The unusual positioning of the Grand Hyatt hotel on the Wan Chai waterfront means One Harbour Road enjoys sweeping westerly views of Victoria Harbour, with both the massive IFC and ICC towers artfully opposing each other through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Numerous water features gently babble in the background of the dining room, which is soothingly serene during a not-so-busy evening service. The considered spacing between tables ensures conversations do not easily carry over; plush carpeting and comfortable furniture also serves to absorb extraneous noise which, when combined with the low lighting and discreet chatter, results in a warm and cosy atmosphere.

The menu at One Harbour Road borrows firmly from the modern Cantonese school of thought, with updates to classic dishes ranging from subtle to bold. A starter of deep-fried black mushrooms with tossed with “cinnamon blossoms” (the esoteric term for osmanthus flowers) is fragrant and earthy at the same time, with a floral sweetness that lacquers the crunchy, tempura-esque exterior. A wok-fired dish of beef stir-fried with seasonal vegetables is a Cantonese staple, here elevated with cubes of soft, yielding Australian wagyu beef (cooked to a blushing medium) laying amongst carefully carved spears of tender choi sum hearts, the tougher skins removed completely. Even humble dishes, such as that of Shanghainese-inspired pan-fried lotus roots and fresh green chillies filled with bouncy fish paste, are seasoned and executed flawlessly; the balanced flavours and textures continue on to desserts and stumbles only slightly at the fresh melon sago with longan. The dish is not quite chilled enough, and is overly sweetened. Homemade sesame ice cream (much is made of the kitchen’s dedication to natural ingredients and freshly-churned iced treats on the menu) is gloriously rich and smooth, the nuttiness of the white sesame a winning combination with the creamy ice cream base.

While the wine list is not the most approachable – there are virtually no bottles around the HK$200-300 range – there are around a dozen wines by the glass and the rest is an impressive selection aimed at pleasing oenophiles. The “sommelier’s cellar collection” is a must for monied wine-lovers, with extraordinary vintages (such as an 1880 Whitwhams Millenium Port).

We were warmly greeted and sat with efficiency, and the staff are charming, relaxed and approachable; they also know the menu inside-out. While our dirty plates were not replaced often enough, our glasses were routinely topped up.

A modest meal for two, with two glasses of wine, can be reasonably had for around HK$500 to HK$600 per head; however factor in premium ingredients or whole bottles of wine, and the estimate can graze four figures. However given the views, standards and portions of food, it does not feel unreasonable.