Sabatini gets the ambience just right for a romantic dinner for two. The arched doorways, tiled floors and painted walls and ceilings work together to create a rustic, country Italian vibe, and the tables are spaced such that diners can speak comfortably rather than whisper in hushed tones. The atmosphere is convivial rather than stuffy, due in no small part to the singer and string quartet who make the rounds through the restaurant, singing everything from Italian classics to contemporary ballads. 

For a light starter, you can’t go wrong with the beef carpaccio, which is served with just the right amount of lemon oil and rucola salad for freshness, while the parmesan shavings and black truffle give the dish a touch of rich flavour. For a more indulgent appetiser, the duo of duck foie gras is exquisite. The slow-poached version is creamy and tasty, while the pan-seared piece is beautifully cooked, with a delicate, crispy crust. The accompanying figs and green apple compote cut through the richness and balance the dish perfectly. Pasta lovers are spoilt for choice at Sabatini. The menu offers a selection of traditional favourites along with a few surprises thrown in. The tagliolini with lobster and vanilla oil, for example, is a delicious balance of flavours and textures. The generous servings of lobster are cooked to just the right doneness, as is the pasta, and the vanilla gives the dish a delicate warmth and richness. The linguini with scampi, clams and mussels is a Sabatini classic – the freshness of the ingredients and the perfect texture of the pasta make for a light but satisfying dish. The restaurant also has a decent selection of meat, seafood and grilled items. The charcoal-grilled lamb chops with thyme, lemon and oven-baked polenta was a bit closer to medium than the medium rare we ordered, but the high quality of the lamb prevented the meat from being tough and the dish was, in the end, still enjoyable. Those with a sweet tooth will love Sabatini’s dessert cart, which offers a wide range of cakes, creams and other sweet delights. 

The wine menu at Sabatini is no mere list – it's a veritable tome of vintages. Those overwhelmed by the massive book – which covers an impressive number of winemaking regions and producers – can order by the glass from the shorter list at the back, or simply ask one of the staff, who can offer helpful suggestions on the best choices by budget, taste and food pairing. For those looking for a stronger drink, the restaurant also has a nice selection of grappas. 

The service at Sabatini is excellent. In addition to being well-trained on the food and wine menus, the staff are also efficient and friendly, and seem genuinely happy to be there, which makes for a highly enjoyable dining experience. 

With most appetisers priced just under HK$300 and most mains around the HK$500 mark, dinner here can result in a hefty bill. Expect at least HK$1,000 per head for three courses without wine, but given the thoroughly enjoyable atmosphere and the delicious food, it’s definitely worth it.