Located on the second floor of The Excelsior Hotel in Causeway Bay, Yee Tung Heen is a modern if somewhat uninspiring restaurant; a lack of windows and demure lighting create a sombre atmosphere that is only enhanced by vivid bright wall coverings and red-backed chairs creating a kaleidoscope of colour. Comfortably spaced tables and cosy banquettes enhance what is otherwise a very functional use of space.

Yee Tung Heen brings seasonal variations of traditional Cantonese cuisine to new levels. Interesting interpretations of classic dishes look fascinating on the menu; but sadly, that is not always translated onto the plate.  Whilst the silky fowl soup is beautifully presented and delivers a wonderful complexity of flavours, the same cannot be said of another signature dish, sauteed tiger prawns in wasabi sauce. The seafood were smothered in a heavy wasabi mayonnaise that obliterated the beautifully fresh tiger prawn. We also liked the fried rice served with crab roe and diced scallops, an imaginative creation that delivered an interesting taste sensation but we were disappointed by a seasonal garoupa dish, which failed to deliver thanks to dry chunks of fish that had swum their last journey several days earlier. Desserts, however, are wonderful with a delightful mango pudding and a wonderfully sinful sake infused aloe vera jelly, completing a totally adequate but somewhat flawed culinary event.

An extensive array of wines from around the world complemented by a large selection of Chinese rice and yellow wines; an opportunity to be able to taste these by the glass would complete a comprehensive wine list that reminds diners that the Excelsior is indeed part of the Mandarin Group.

Perfect service from arrival to departure; dishes are explained at length both when choosing and when presented. Courteous staff demonstrate a deft clearing of plates; tea cups are constantly refilled and a professional level of attention was aimed at us at all time. If the food can match the service, Yee Tung Heen will fast become the best Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong.

A meal for two without alcohol will cost around HK$1,800, Yee Tung Heen is not cheap and better value can be found in many Cantonese restaurants serving tastier food around Causeway Bay.