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With round, communal tables and plenty of red and gold décor, Yung Kee is traditional without being touristy; elegant without being pretentious. In the true style of Cantonese eateries, there’s quite a bit of bustle and lively conversation, with plenty of groups of friends and travellers eager for their first taste of local cuisine, as well as suits out on business meals to impress their clients. In spite of being located smack in the heart of Central and right at beginning of Lan Kwai Fong, the overall mood of the restaurant is relaxed, with diners leisurely chatting while working their way through their meals.
There are plenty of classics on the menu, from braised abalone to entire steamed crabs to baked chicken with rock salt. Even dishes you can find at any old cha chaan teng, such as fried rice in Yangzhou style, are done with the utmost delicacy here. Several multi-course sets are available, all featuring the signature roast goose, of course. Our favourites were the double-boiled mushroom soup, which was clear, light and with a strong yet not overwhelming flavour of shitake mushroom; the sautéed vegetables topped with crab meat, the seafood in which was soft and a perfect complement to the vegetables; and the stir-fried snakehead fish with XO sauce, which was jam-packed full of flavour. However, perhaps we had caught the restaurant on a bad day, because sadly we found their signatures—the roast goose and the deep-fried prawn with mini crab roe—satisfying but not amazingly impressive.
Featurng plenty of varieties from gerwurztraminer to cabernet sauvignon, Yung Kee’s wine list is extensive. Check the back of the list for a selection of Chinese wines, as well. Only the house red and white were available by the glass or carafe, the rest (including Chinese wines and liquors) were only available by the bottle.
Friendly and helpful, the staff at Yung Kee readily recommended signature dishes and were always close at hand to fill our teacups or take additional orders.
You’ll get what you’re paying for in the form of stellar service and beautiful atmosphere, with a meal for two coming to around HK$700 for two – reasonable considering the Central location.